Day 15: Hunter’s Inn to Lynmouth

Two more things that are proving an irritation (though not as bad as non-existent footpaths or, of course, zips): sweat running down into your eyes and stinging them; and hotel rooms with no chair – so you have to sit on the edge of the bed to use the laptop – not great for your back.

The Hunter’s Inn, though very comfortable, did not end up so far up my accommodation league in the end (a) because it was noisy after 9.30 and before 8.00. Is it really Ok to be hoovering communal areas before 8.00? I was not asleep but some people would have been; and (b) slow service at breakfast. It was my most expensive stop so far. Better than two out of three of the other expensive ones though.

Today was a day of two parts: after a 40 minute climb up to the high roads again, another walk with lovely views, ending in Lynton, where I took the famous cliff railway – ‘the highest and steepest fully water powered railway in the world ‘ – down to Lynmouth. This was not cheating, as I had to go out of my way to ride on it – indeed I easily used up extra distance searching for the elusive Lynton public loo! Last time I was on the cliff railway was at Easter 1971 – part of a family holiday to nearby Blue Anchor – in fact the last holiday with the whole family.

Lynmouth was in fact my destination, but after a pub lunch (lemonade!), I walked a further five miles up the River Lyn valley (scene of devastating floods in 1952, which destroyed houses and bridges and killed 34 people.) I then took a taxi back from Brendon to Lynmouth. This was to shorten tomorrow’s walk, which still looks pretty scary. The taxi will take me back to Brendon tomorrow – and take my pack on to the Minehead hotel.

Having settled into a comfortable B and B, I went out in search of food, expecting everything to be booked as it was in Porthtowan. However, the chippy was serving and not crowded. Lynmouth was by then in shadow, though the sun was still on the woodlands and hills above. Eating my chips at the side of the river was very peaceful – rather like being on holiday.

Despite the heat warning, I was mainly in breeze or shade, so did not find it very oppressive today.

I am anxious about tomorrow specifically, and then again about several days coming up. Three things conspire: the level of expected heat; the fact that footpaths, when they exist, and hills seem to take much longer to walk than I thought; and the fact that I have planned some rather long days. I had thought that by week 3 I would be feeling fitter and thus able to tackle 18 milers. In fact I regularly do 18 miles when on holiday, and did several such in ‘training’ for the trip. Now I am not so sure that I will manage these long days. All the days between now and Bristol are rather long, though not all are hilly.

The only thing to do is to take each day at a time and see how it goes. If I do leave some gaps, Somerset (which I reach tomorrow) will be the easiest place to come back one day and fill them, as I lived in the county for 17 years and have lots of friends and relations there who could do drops and pick-ups.

Tomorrow’s walk to Minehead will be long, hilly and hot. I have prepared by having three comparatively light 12 mile days in a row – all finished by mid afternoon. I will only have a light pack – in fact water will be the main item I will be carrying. And I have already done five miles of the walk. BUT I suspect in this weather I may not make the distance – I have a note of bus times from Porlock if I need them! It will certainly be the biggest challenge so far.

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Daily Data

Days left until John O’Groats	61
Route miles walked	217.07
Estimated miles until John O’Groats	837
Evening and rest day walking	4
Counties walked through	2
Ferry miles	0.4
Number of walking companions so far	3
Number of stiles crossed	38
Current sponsorship total	£12,183.82
Cast of characters (Bold = walking companions)	Jeremy Pemberton, Laurence Cunnington, Brad Poulson, Adele Poulson, Graeme Parkhill, Andy Hellwig, Patrick Lynn, Esther Lynn, Emma Rayner, Quentin Rayner, Sara Low, Robbie Low, Christopher Darwin, Heather Darwin, Christine Hytch, Chris Hytch and Annown, Hilary Edwards, Richard Edwards

Support the Charities

To donate to any of the four charities, click here.