October 20th - 27th 2024
This trip had two purposes - to fill in the 30+ miles that I had to omit because of my back trouble last time, and to proceed North from Connel to Fort William. The first of these was not 100% successful. On the train journey up I became aware that Storm Ashley was due in Western Scotland, and by the time I had arrived the ferry across Loch Lomond to my starting point of Inversnaid, booked for next morning, had been cancelled. It would have been legitimate to walk along the West of the Loch rather than the East, but (a) the road on the West side is windy and busy, with no footways - not somewhere you would want to walk, and (b) at breakfast Storm Ashley looked rather scary, especially as it was due to get a lot worse according to the forecast (as it happened this was as bad as it got, but nevertheless). So having travelled over 300 miles for seven day's walking, the first day was spent sitting in hotels, with a bus journey in between. I will have to return to do Inversnaid to Inverarnon - only about 7 miles - in March before going on to the last section of the walk - hopefully third time lucky. By the time it is done this section will have cost me two extra nights in hotels, and several extra bus and train fares. So: frustrating.
That said, the rest of the trip worked very well. The weather was mostly cloudy, with a few bits of rain, and a few bits of sun, but never cold or particularly windy. I had planned the walk well, so none of the days were too long or strenuous.
Inverarnan to Tyndrum, and then on to Dalmally, filled up the rest of the missed section. Some of this was on the West Highland Way, and some along the road (in this case roads with good sightlines and verges). The valley from Tyndrum to Dalmally is especially scenic, and had the best weather of the week. At Dalmally I stayed at the same guest house as in the Spring - it still wins the prize for the nicest accommodation of the trip.
I then caught a bus from Dalmally to Connel (which section I did walk in the Spring). (This trip involved six trains, two busses and two ferries - all of these were exactly in time!). Much of the next three days was spent on the excellent cycle route, which was often right at the loch-side, and at one stage went through a hilly nature reserve - even past a Wildcat preservation area. I stayed at Port Appin (where you can get the Ferry to Lismore), and then by Loch Leven - these two hotels broke one of the trip's rules: they were expensive but, unlike all other expensive places since Cornwall, you could actually see what you were getting for your money! Still not better than the Dalmally Guest House of the Porthtowan Airbnb though.
On the last day - again with the cycle route - I crossed Loch Linnhe on a ferry (free to pedestrians) and walked the 11 miles on the very quiet road on the West of the Loch, before getting little little foot-ferry back and arriving in Fort William. This stretch was one of the highlights of the whole trip, with lovely views of the loch and across to Ben Nevis.
So, by Fort William I had done another 75.93 miles, making a total of 981.89 miles since Land's End, which means that the second day of my next and last stage will top the 1,000 mark. So far, not including rest days, I have walked 62 days.
The last stage will be starting on 24th March, and what with plugging the Inversnaid gap, a rest day at the end, and two days to travel home, will take nearly three weeks.
Thanks you for your continued interest.
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